The Art Of Wave Riding

Sports play a role in society in every developed country in the world. And even in the most primitive cultures there is slightly form of competition, some means of displaying athletic prowess. Many games, much(prenominal) as soccer, rescue crossed oceans and are played on several diametrical continents. Many pas seuls have hundreds of years of history behind them, such as lacrosse. But only unmatchable, perhaps the oldest of all sports, shadower claim to be spheric. There are approximately 17 to 23 million active surfers in the world today, residing in every county that has a coast (Flint). No other sport has transcended language, political borders, and time itself as thoroughly and easily as surfing. Perhaps this is because for many people surfing is much to a greater extent than a sport. It has a unique and powerful appeal that is derived from the whimsical combination of involved elements; adrenaline, skill, and high-paced maneuvering are set against a by nature unpredictable backdrop; an organic environment that is graceful and serene, notwithstanding can also be violent and formidable. Anyone who has done it lead testify that there is something special about surfing, and it is often viewed as less of sport or recreational activity, and more of a lifestyle (Eglington). Some even view it as a major part of their religion because of the undeniable spiritual aspects.





So what is surfing? According to Dr. Sweeney of the University of California at Santa Barbara, To surf is to explore, to conjoin with nature, and to embed oneself in history. Surfing, in one respect, is simply a recreational sport, but it is also a multi-billion dollar global industry, a reflection of global climate patterns interacting with reef ecesis and sedimentation, a globalizing culture diffusing from strong regional identities, and a reason to travel to exotic locations and explore the planet. Diego Garcia, one of surfings greats, has said that surfing is the tool to take in out what lifes about (Flint). And the Australian...If you want to describe a full essay, order it on our website: Ordercustompaper.com



If you want to get a full essay, wisit our page: write my paper